Farm + Market

Oysters were a growth process for me. I’ve never been much for foods that require time to “learn to enjoy,” but summer parties on Nantucket often include bountiful trays of oysters and chilled shrimp, and nothing else. And if the evening stretches into a string of gatherings, there is often little else to eat. One night a friend laughed and said, “You’re really missing out on something delicious.”

Even now, in early August, the morning air carries a chill more familiar to spring than high summer heat. Tomato vines hesitated. Peaches took their time. Only this week did the real warmth arrive—sunlight pressing into the ground, drawing out ripeness at last. In my family, this is jam season.

When I was younger, I used to walk to the dusty farmstand from the Prestons’ house on Dry Creek Road. We’d eat a peach on the way back, the warm, sticky juice running down our cheeks and arms marking summer’s beginning in quiet streaks of gold.

"This is my 20th year photographing harvest—since 2005—and I still love this time," writes Liza Gershman. "I’ve spent nights with vineyard crews lit only by headlamps and moonlight, capturing the exact moment the fruit leaves the vine. My favorite moment is when the deepest darkness turns into light and the sky opens up. I rarely see sunrise outside of harvest. There’s a reverence to it. A rhythm. A knowing..."

The philosophy here is simple, though the execution is anything but. NewTree Ranch operates on permaculture principles and biodynamic practices, supported by renowned consultant Harold Hoven. Over the past decade, the land has been transformed.

"Every year on the Thursday before Memorial Day, the streets of Healdsburg fill with music and marching bands, vintage tractors and streamers, and the laughter of the Twilight Parade," writes Liza Gershman in her bi-weekly "Harvest" column. "This is the rhythm of small-town summer: unhurried, joyful, deeply familiar..."

We're looking for dishes that reflect local flavor and personal history. Maybe it’s your famous strawberry tart. Your go-to pea risotto. The green garlic pasta you only make in May. You don’t have to be a professional chef. Just use at least one ingredient from the Healdsburg Certified Farmers’ Market, and let the season be your muse.