By Liza Gershman
One of my favorite summer rituals is a plate of oysters shared with friends. On Nantucket it might be on the beach, feet buried in the sand, as the tide quietly slips in and out. Or at a cocktail party where trays of oysters arrive on crushed ice, lemon wedges balanced on their edges. They’re simple, fleeting and somehow unforgettable.
Oysters were a growth process for me. I’ve never been much for foods that require time to “learn to enjoy,” but summer parties on Nantucket often include bountiful trays of oysters and chilled shrimp, and nothing else. And if the evening stretches into a string of gatherings, there is often little else to eat. One night a friend laughed and said, “You’re really missing out on something delicious.”
So, through practice, patience and a little determination, I taught myself to love oysters—the small, briny ones first. What began as a necessity became something I now deeply enjoy, a flavor that feels like the personification of summer itself.
Here in Healdsburg, oysters are symbolic of summer, too, and of life close to the coast. The sound of a shucker’s knife, the first briny taste of the sea, the quiet pause that comes with savoring something so elemental. At the Healdsburg Farmers’ Market, Anna’s Seafood brings Pacific oysters straight from the boat, and winery events often host Hog Island or the Bodega Bay Oyster Co. for guests to enjoy. When I bring a dozen oysters home and nestle them over ice, I’m reminded how these shells can hold the essence of an entire ocean—an edible map of where they’ve lived.
That connection to place feels so vivid in each bite, and it mirrors the way certain locations can feel tethered to one another even across great distances.
Poetic link
What I once thought was simply a poetic link between my two coastal loves—Nantucket and Healdsburg—turned out to have deeper roots. History revealed itself in an uncanny way. Holly Hoods, executive director and curator of the Healdsburg Museum, shared this passage from the archives:
“Born into a seafaring family in 1833, Alexander Dennison grew up a free person of color on Nantucket Island. Dennison left for California c. 1857, arriving in Healdsburg with his bride, Rebecca, in 1859. He opened a barber shop with baths inside the Sotoyome Hotel.”
So perhaps my connection to both coastal haunts isn’t coincidence after all. Nantucket and Healdsburg are quietly, unmistakingly, intrinsically linked—through history, through a culinary experience and through a shared sense of community that I can tangibly notice.
Like both communities, embracing simplicity is the experience. Oysters need almost nothing. A sharp knife, a careful hand. A platter, a wedge of lemon, maybe a light mignonette. They’re perfect in their simplicity.
And sometimes, if I want to elevate the moment for guests, I find the perfect wine.
Wines to share
In France’s Loire Valley, oysters have long been paired with melon de Bourgogne. This crisp, mineral-driven grape migrated from Burgundy to the Loire in the 1700s after a devastating winter. It became the backbone of Muscadet, a wine that seems as though it was made to sit beside oysters.
California has its own twist on that story. For nearly 20 years, vines at Robert Young Estate in Alexander Valley were thought to be pinot blanc—until genetic testing revealed their true identity: melon de Bourgogne. Today, only Robert Young and one other small producer, Ra Ra Wine Co. (sourcing grapes from the Robert Young ranch), create a melon, making it one of the rarest grapes in the state.
Tasting melon reveals exactly why it was worth discovery. It is light and refreshing, yet has a layered minerality that feels like a quiet echo of the sea. As fifth-generation vintner Robert Young says, “Melon de Bourgogne is super refreshing but still has this great minerality and complexity that makes it the perfect oyster wine. Most people have never heard of it, which is why we love sharing it—it’s always a fun surprise.”
Even during an unusually cool summer like this one, oysters remain an ideal choice. They serve as a reminder that the season isn’t measured by the heat of the day, but by the moments gathered around the table—simple, fresh and shared. And sometimes, in the smallest things, it becomes clear how close two distant coasts can truly be.
Now in season
This week at the Healdsburg Farmers’ Market, summer still spills over in heirloom tomatoes, sweet corn, tender squash blossoms, fragrant basil and baskets of sun-warmed peaches. Early apples are beginning to appear alongside vibrant peppers and crisp cucumbers. Fresh herbs, local cheeses and artisan breads make it easy to bring the market home and create a meal that reflects the season.
Calling all home cooks
The final town-wide recipe contest for Farm + Market: Healdsburg is now open. Family recipes, market-inspired dishes and simple seasonal favorites are all welcome. Submissions will be accepted through Aug. 8 for a chance to be featured in the book. Details can be found at healdsburgbook.com.
